Meet Lefty’s Babies

Tuesday, 30 April
Gulf State Park  — Gulf Shores, Alabama
Temps: Lo 67F / Hi 77F (19C / 25C)

After three days of triking and hiking the trails, today was a rather quiet day.  But before I get to today, let me go back to yesterday first.

Monday, 29 April …

Of our three days of fun on the Hugh S. Branyon Backcountry Trail (post for the first two days here), today was the best.  Why?  Not because we took it a little easier and only triked 12.2 miles (19.5 km).  And certainly not because we spent more time at the Butterfly Pavilion, which we had to ourselves as we enjoyed our snacks on the swing.

The Butterfly Pavilion and Garden has …

… a couple of swings on the porch … a good rest-spot for weary trail-explorers.

Rather, today was the best day on the trail because Lefty, the resident alligator, introduced some of her babies to us.  From what I have read, alligators lay their eggs in late June and early July.  The eggs incubate for 65 days before the babies hatch.  That being the case, the baby gators we saw today must be from last year’s litter.  The hatchings are apparently about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) when they are born and grow a foot (30 cm) in the first year.  The ones we saw today were plus or minus a foot long, which seems just about right for 8 month-old babies.

One of the babies is taking the easy way out with a ride on Momma Lefty’s back.

Most alligators lay 35-50 eggs, though some can lay as many as 90.  We counted six in the pond with Lefty, and later learned that two others had been taken and are on display at the Nature Center.  There could have been more hidden from our eyes, of course, but eight is about right since only 20% of the young tend to survive.

One baby was hitching a ride on Lefty’s back; another was sunning on the culvert that provides access to the pond on the other side of the road.  The rest were in the water, periodically coming up onto the vegetation to rest.  I managed to get a picture of all but one of the babies; the sixth one slipped into the water and disappeared from view before I could click the shutter.

We’ve heard a bull bellowing these past few days.  I wonder if it is courting Lefty?  It is mating season, after all.  I don’t know how long after a cow has her hatchlings she is ready to mate again.  Need to do some more reading.

By the way, the viewing area has a large-mesh fence that keeps us safe from Lefty … and vice versa, I suppose.  She doesn’t have anything to fear from us, of course.  The fence, however, would do nothing to keep the hatchlings safe; they could easily slip through and be on the road in seconds, where they would be in danger of being run over by cyclists and maintenance vehicles.  Or even be taken as a pet by some thoughtless person.   I wonder why a finer mesh wasn’t used?

OK — enough alligators.  On to other things?  We shaved off a few miles from our ride by returning from the gator pond back to the Catman Road Trail.  On our way to the campground, I stopped to take a photo of a patch of wetlands and was rewarded by catching a wood duck pair at home.

I catch the female just as she leaves the nest to bathe in the pond.
As she does so, the male turns in her direction, as though keeping an eye on her.

When we got to Gator Road, the turn off for our loop, we kept going and cycled to the Gulf State Park Nature Center, which is located in the same complex as the swimming pool and gift shop.  The center is small, though there is a big outdoor amphitheater where they have programs … none while we’re here.  Also outside is a purple martin condo made of gourds … there were a few birds, but they disappeared when a couple of rowdy kids showed up.

The majority of the live animals are snakes and such;
but there is a more varied stuffed-animal collection on display.

Our primary purpose for stopping by was to see the two gator babies that had been removed from the pond to this facility.  Not sure how I feel about that.  I suppose it is no different from putting them in a zoo, but I am still wrestling with the thought that these babies were removed from Lefty’s care while so young.  Then again, that they are at the nature center increases the likelihood of survival, so that’s something positive.

Click the photo for a legible version of gator factoids from this signage at the Nature Center.

Finally returning home, we relaxed for a bit before heading out to run errands.  While out, we also stopped for lunch at Lambert’s CafĂ© … the only home of Throwed Rolls!  What can I say about this place that hasn’t already been said.  Yes, we caught a couple of rolls and tried them with both sorghum syrup and apple butter; tasted the fried okra served on a paper towel at our table; accepted offers of the pass-arounds; and enjoyed our meal.  Mui ordered the pulled pork sandwich, which he proceeded to eat without the bun.  I ordered the fried shrimp, with two side dishes, and immediately asked for a doggie bag to bring half home.  Thus, we surprised our waiter by still having room for dessert — banana pudding instead of the strawberry shortcake special of the day.

Where are the photos you ask?  There are none.  Since we were out to run errands, I didn’t take my camera with me.  Bad, bad Erin!  But here’s a photo of the mural on the side of the building.  Those who have been to Lambert’s will know that I didn’t take the photograph at lunchtime today.  It would have been impossible to do so since the parking lot was chock-a-block with cars.  No, I spied the mural last Friday when we passed through Foley on our way to the Pitcher Plant Bog.

The mural, painted by Lorenzo Green, tells the story of four generations of Lamberts.

A relaxing afternoon at home was enhanced with bird sightings in the clearing around us.  Nothing quite like being able to do birding from our own patio ;-)

A European Starling carrying dinner home … “froggy” on the menu tonight.

A red-bellied woodpecker comes visiting and
shows off the reddish belly-flush for which it is named.

What a way to end an excellent day here in coastal Alabama.

Back to Today …

Today was a day of rest.  Yes, after three days of high-energy activities we took it easy.  Not that we stayed home all day!  After breakfast, we headed over to the beach.  While Mui spent the entire time in the water, I walked along the shore, letting the surf wash over my feet.

Anyone know what this jelly-like sea critter is?

Sandwich Terns

Unfortunately, on my walk I came across another dead sea turtle.  I hesitate to identify it; but it's likely another Kemp's Ridley.  I reported it to the NOAA Fisheries, Protected Resources Office as I did the Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles we found dead on the beach while we were at Buccaneer State Park in Mississippi.  This time, I think the turtle’s demise came at the hands — or rather, the teeth — of a shark.  Not to be too gruesome, but it was missing its head.

To spare everyone’s sensibilities, I processed these photos in B&W!
It doesn’t make the loss any less sad, but I do hope this sea turtle died from a shark attack.

By the way, the 2013 year-to-date sea turtle stranding stats are out for AL, LA, MS, and TX.  And it’s not looking good.  The 2013 strandings for Kemp’s Ridleys in Mississippi, for example, is already at 89; that’s compared to 153 for MS for all of 2012.  Alabama, for the year, has had 11 strandings; that’s compared to 65 for all of 2012.

Screenshot of 2013 YTD stats from the NOAA Fisheries, Protected Resources Office website.

Moving onto something less depressing …

We spent the rest of the day relaxing in the screen shelter until the humid afternoon heat forced us inside.  Turns out that was a good thing … had we been outside we probably would not have been visited by the flock of cattle egret that came flying into feast on the grass adjacent to our patio.

A flock of cattle egret fly in for an early dinner on the patch of grass next to us.
I managed to open the dining room window without scaring them off.

The buff colored plumes adorning this cattle egret indicate that this is breeding season.

The bird on the left shows a red flush on the legs and beak, present only during the
height of the breeding season.  The bird on the right … not so much.

We had plans to go sightseeing this week, but the weather may not cooperate.  There’s an 80% chance of rain and gusty winds forecasted for tomorrow.  A chore day at home, I think.

Triking & Hiking the Backcountry

Sunday, 28 April
Gulf State Park  — Gulf Shores, Alabama
Temps: Lo 66F / Hi 77F (19C / 25C)

With the weekend at hand, we postponed plans for sightseeing until the crowds dissipated.  Instead, we went triking and hiking — OK, walking — on the backcountry trails, enjoyed a sunrise breakfast on the beach one morning, and spent a couple of hours relaxing in the shade of our beach shelter on two afternoons when the sun was out and the breeze off the gulf kept the temperatures comfortable.

Saturday, 27 April …

Since we had determined that there were no over-the-ocean sunset opportunities, we decided to try for a sunrise instead.

Our plan to watch the sun come up from the beach pavilion was a bust.  With the parking lot closed, there was nowhere safe to leave the car.  So, we did our sunrise vigil from the section of the beach accessed via the boardwalk at the intersection of State Park Road 2 and Hwy 182.

The bonus from this part of the beach … a photo of the full moon.  With the Canon SX50HS at full zoom (~1200mm), I actually got details of the moon’s surface.  The downside from this spot … our view included the Orange Beach high-rises, which we opted to think of as Mont Saint-Michel :-)

Rather than shoot a pale, wide-angle sunrise I zoom into highlight the brilliant colors
as the sun starts to clear the buildings that are about 2 miles (3.2 km) from where we are.

As the sun continues its ascent, a couple of fishermen join us on the beach.
Bonne chance guys!

With the sun high on the horizon, and the temps quickly warming up, we returned home, picked up the trikes, and set off to ride the Hugh S. Branyon Backcountry Trail (HSBBT).  The 11-mile (17.5 km) trail has two access points from within Gulf State Park, one of which is at the back of the campground.  The really nice thing about this trail system — aside from its setting, which traverses heavily forested areas as well as wetlands — is that all but one of the trails are paved.  Some of the trails have a bit of a grade in sections, but most are flat all the way.

The Cotton Bayou is gravel, but still doable if you’re careful;
Gulf Oak Ridge and Rattlesnake Ridge have some ups and downs, but nothing major.
The trail system goes through six ecosystems.

On this first foray on the HSBBT, we started out by triking 2.3 miles (3.7 km) from our campsite to the Gulf Oak Ridge trailhead; skipped Rattlesnake and went up Catman Road; cycled a bit along Hwy 161 — there is a bike path paralleling the road; re-connected to the trail system via gravelly Cotton Bayou; triked along Rosemary Dunes with a stop to see Lefty, the resident alligator (no luck); and returned to camp via the bike path on Hwy 182.  All said, we did 15 miles (24 km) … our longest trike ride to-date.

Oak Ridge to Twin Bridges to the Catman Trail.
Along the way are benches and covered swings for people to enjoy, each inscribed with a
message from the donor … on this bench, Margaret, from Gulph, Ontario, invites us to sit.

Taking a break at the intersection of Twin Bridges and Catman.
Despite diligent searching, I am sorry to say we did not come across the Catman
a part man/part wildcat creature that has allegedly been lurking in this area.  Maybe next time!

By the time we returned home we were drained.  Not from the long ride, but from the sticky humidity that made the 72F (22C) temperature quite uncomfortable.  Cold drinks and a quiet afternoon enjoying the screen shelter and the beach shelter revived us sufficiently to plan a similar itinerary for the next day — this time on foot.

Back to today

Up early after a good night’s rest, we were raring to get going with our planned walk on the HSBBT.  A quick breakfast; snacks packed … and off we went.  While the overcast skies weren’t nice, we appreciated the cloud cover as it kept the temperatures comfortable for most of our walk.

Starting with a .9-mile (1.4 km) walk from our site to the back of the campground, we connected to the Catman Trail.  At Little Lake we found this critter taking an early-morning swim.  No wonder swimming is only allowed at Shelby Lake!

Continuing on Catman, we arrived at the Butterfly Pavilion at the intersection with the Rosemary Dunes Trail.

No butterflies today; nor yesterday for that matter.  The pavilion is actually a covered shelter with several picnic tables where people can rest and have a packed-from-home bite to eat.  Its proximity to the only restrooms and water fountain on the trail make it a popular place.

We used one of the tables yesterday to enjoy mid-morning snacks while we chatted with a biker who reported a bobcat sighting.  Today, we stopped just long enough for me to take photos of the colorful flowers in the adjacent garden.

This stop came with a bonus!

Finished with the flowers, I was walking back to join Mui when the unmistakable pecking sounds of a woodpecker stopped me in my tracks.  Searching the high reaches of the trees nearby, I located the source of the sound — a red-bellied woodpecker, which stood still long enough for me to capture a shot of it.

I never did get a good-angle to see the reddish belly-wash for which the bird is named.  There’s always next time, I suppose.  In the meantime, I enjoyed the “bird in hand,” so to speak.

Sorry; I didn’t take the time to research these flowers, but I am guessing they
all attract butterflies … thus the name of the pavilion.

Resuming our walk, we turned on to the Rosemary Dunes Trail.  Our next stop was at the gator pond — home of the trail’s resident alligator: Lefty.  She gets her name not only because she is missing her right front leg, but also because her right eye is damaged.  How this happened, I do not know, but despite her handicaps she’s apparently attractive to some male alligator as she has a litter of baby gators.  None were visible today, but we spent a nice time with momma Lefty even so.

Lefty shows us her “good” profile today!

Bidding Lefty good bye, we continued further down the Rosemary Dunes Trail before using a utility service road to cross over to the beach to complete our self-made loop trail.  The gravel road wasn’t the most scenic, but it made for a decent short cut; and it did take us by a pond where the water lilies were blooming.

Even though it was only 9:00a at this point, the humidity had increased to uncomfortable levels — again.  Nor was there much of a breeze on the beach to keep us cool.  Add to that the fog, which hid the view from our eyes; and the soft sand, which made walking a rather difficult proposition.  In the end, in order to make headway on the 3.1 miles (5 km) we still had to go to get back to our site, we decided to walk on the bike path on Hwy 182 instead.  I will say that this last portion of our walk wasn’t fun, but it was good exercise.

From morning fog on the beach, to relaxing and swimming — Mui, of course — in the afternoon.

All in all, we walked 15,963 steps — about 6 miles (9.5 km).  And we deserved taking the afternoon off to read and relax — first on our patio, and later under our shade shelter on the beach.

Pecans and Purple Martins in Fairhope

Friday, 26 April (Part II)
Gulf State Park  — Gulf Shores, Alabama
Temps: Lo 58F / Hi 77F (14C / 25C)

From the Weeks Bay Pitcher Plant Bog (post here), we continued northwest 11.5 miles (18.5 km) to the city of Fairhope.

It had been recommended as a “park and walk” kind of place, so we were looking forward to a nice wander.  Alas, Fairhope turned out to be a bust mostly, but a few things made the drive worthwhile.


On the map above, “B” is the Pitcher Plant Bog and “C” is the city of Fairhope.   

Mui loves pecans — not just because they are a cholesterol-free snack, but also because they are loaded with antioxidants.  Seeing grove after grove of pecan trees on the drive down US-98 on Monday, he had a hankering to visit one of the farms.  That’s how we ended up at the B&B Pecan Company, which promotes “direct from the farm” pecans since 1958 when Clarence and Sandra Bishop, expecting their first child, formed the company as a way for Sandra to “… stay at home, raise a family, and hopefully bring in a little income. …”

Glimpses from the B&B Pecan Company farm.
The bottom right photo is of pecan blossoms, otherwise known as “catkins.”

I was out taking photos, so I missed Clarence’s traditional “Welcome to the Nut House” greeting, but Mui was quick to let me know where I was when I joined him ;-)

Being the only patrons in the gift shop came with an advantage.  In response to a question from Mui about the processing of pecans, Clarence took us back into the office where Sandra was hard at work filling mail- and web-orders for all kinds of pecan goodies.  Pulling out a couple of office chairs, Clarence popped a DVD into the computer and invited us to watch and learn.

It sure would be fun to visit here during harvest time — October thru December — and experience the “pecan shower” … safely standing under a sturdy umbrella, of course.

Since that wasn’t possible this time, we left with a few goodies — a bag each of B&B’s fresh shelled and honey-roasted pecans, and a bottle of virgin pecan oil from Kinloch Plantation in Louisiana.

Mui’s been using the oil to sautĂ© vegetables, and so far thinks it’s great, especially since the oil has a higher smoking point in comparison to virgin olive oil.  Just might have to pick up another bottle when we run out.

Clarence shares with Mui a Ford 1956 pick-up truck …
well, a smaller version of the original, which he still has.

Bottom Right is a Pecan cracker; bottom left is a claw used to clean cracked pecans.

the sign in the top right photo reads: Some of my best friends are nuts!

I mentioned that the city of Fairhope was a bust in our book.  We were expecting a charming place not dissimilar from Ocean Springs, Mississippi.  And perhaps it is, but today the heavy traffic in the heart of downtown completely turned us off; not at all a place to wander and enjoy.  As well, when we stopped at the visitor center, the staffer was unable to come up with any must-see’s … except for the Fairhope Museum of History.  We’re picky about the museums we visit, so that was a no-go.

All was not lost, however, as the Municipal Park, overlooking Mobile Bay, was a saving grace.  First, we found a table for an al fresco, packed-from-home lunch.  And second, we got to do some birding while there.

“Love is in the Air” for this pair of laughing gulls.

The highlight of our birding was seeing the new-to-me Purple Martins.  A nearby sign described Fairhope’s Purple Martin Project:

The largest of the swallow family, Purple Martins pass through this area twice a year on their great migratory adventure, a flight for some that can be as long as 8,500 miles [13,600 km].  Wintering in South America, they begin their journey northward right around the first of the year.  They usually arrive on the Eastern Shore from late January or early February.  In addition to their beautiful song and graceful flight, they also help humans.  Because swallows consume thousands of tons of flying insects per year, they help increase agricultural yields, and greatly reduce the amounts of harmful pesticides needed for insect control.  Purple Martins once relied on natural tree cavities, but now are raised in man made housing.  The City of Fairhope began erecting Purple Martin apartments near the Fairhope Pier in February 2001.  Nesting occurs from late March through early July.  After the young have fledged, the martins leave the colony to start assembling as larger flocks.  The southward migration begins by the end of August, and virtually all Purple Martins leave the Gulf Coast by mid-September.

Purple Martin Project Credits: Mobile Bay Audobon Society, Mr. Garland Sims and other citizen volunteers.

The Purple Martin Riviera
The sign designates one of the apartments as the office for the 226 condos,
and says reservations are required.  I hope Purple Martins can read!

left: A European Starling has rented one of the condos; or maybe he’s just subletting!
Right: female (left) and male Purple Martin taking a bit of air on the terrace.

Apparently Purple Martins are big-time flying insect eaters … too bad they weren’t around
Buccaneer State Park to rid us of the biting gnats that were bugging us (post here).

A closer look at the European Starling trespassing at the Purple Martin condos.

Browsing the brochure I picked up at the visitor center, I found a list of public art in Fairhope.  Noting that some were on the bluff above the municipal park where we were enjoying our lunch and the birds, we decided to drive around and check them out.

The Marietta Johnson Memorial by Fran Neumann, Barbara Casey, and Richard Arnold.
It honors Ms Johnson, a progressive teacher who started the Organic School.

Left: Seahorse by Bruce Larsen and John Rezner.
Right: Dolphin Family by Jim Sardonis.

A little further out, on the grounds of the Thomas Hospital, we found another piece of public art.  After that, we gave up the search as the drive took us back in to the madding traffic, which we wanted no part of.

Alligator by Bruce Larsen; constructed of found metal, wood, and other objects.

The ride back home was more than uneventful … it was downright boring.  It served to dissuade us from our original plan of exploring some of the farther flung places of interest — including the USS Alabama in Mobile.  We’ll do those another time when we camp somewhere more convenient.  That said, there are a few places not that far from Gulf State Park that we still hope to visit … but only after the weekend crowds dissipate next week.